
Reptiles & Amphibians
Green Iguana
Iguana iguana
Care level
Advanced
Lifespan
12 to 20 years with good care; 15+ years is typical and 20+ is achievable. Many die young from preventable husbandry disease.
Adult size
Large. 1.2 to 1.8 m (4 to 6 ft) total length including the tail, with exceptional males approaching 2 m. Typical adult weight is around 4 to 6 kg (roughly 9 to 13 lb) in a well-grown male; females are usually lighter (about 1.2 to 3 kg). Only large, heavy-bodied individuals reach 7 to 8 kg, and obesity is a genuine husbandry problem to avoid.
The green iguana is one of the most commonly bought and most commonly abandoned reptiles, because the cute 20 cm hatchling becomes a powerful 1.5 to 2 m arboreal lizard within a few years. This is an advanced, long-term commitment: it needs a custom room-sized enclosure, high-output UVB, precise heat and humidity, and a strict fresh-greens diet prepared daily. Mature males can become territorial and deliver serious tail whips, scratches, and bites, and the tail can cause lasting injury. Metabolic bone disease from poor calcium and UVB is tragically common and often irreversible. Wonderful, intelligent animals for a dedicated keeper who has genuinely planned for the adult size, not the pet-shop baby.
Housing & setup
Adults need a floor-to-ceiling, custom enclosure, not an aquarium. Aim for a minimum of about 2.4 to 3.6 m long x 1.8 m tall x 1.2 m deep (roughly 8 to 12 ft x 6 ft x 4 ft); vertical height matters most because iguanas are arboreal. Many keepers convert a whole room or a large closet. Furnish with sturdy, secured climbing branches at varied heights, broad basking shelves under the heat and UVB, and elevated hides. Provide a large, shallow water container big enough to soak in, cleaned daily. Substrate should be safe and easy to disinfect: newspaper, reptile carpet, or large-particle orchid bark. AVOID sand, fine gravel, wood shavings, cedar, and pine, which cause gut impaction and respiratory irritation. Babies can start smaller but you must plan and budget for the adult enclosure from day one.
Diet & feeding
Strict herbivore; feed only plants, fresh daily. Base roughly 70 to 80 percent on calcium-rich dark leafy greens: collard, mustard, turnip and dandelion greens, escarole, endive, chicory, and watercress. Add about 15 to 20 percent other vegetables (squash, green beans, bell pepper, snap peas, grated sweet potato) and no more than 5 to 10 percent fruit as a treat. Dust salads with a plain calcium (no phosphorus) supplement most feeds, use a calcium-with-D3 and a reptile multivitamin only once or twice weekly, aiming for a dietary calcium-to-phosphorus ratio near 2:1. AVOID entirely: all animal protein (meat, insects, eggs, dog or cat food), dairy, and human processed food; these cause kidney disease, gout, and dangerous hypervitaminosis D. Feed spinach, chard, beet greens, kale, and rhubarb only sparingly or not at all because their oxalates or goitrogens bind calcium or interfere with the thyroid. No avocado, no onion or garlic, no iceberg lettuce (nutritionally empty).
Temperature, light & environment
Provide a clear thermal gradient. Basking spot: 35 to 38 C (95 to 100 F) measured at the surface where the iguana sits (do not let it exceed about 40 C). Warm ambient side: 29 to 32 C (85 to 90 F). Cool side: 26 to 29 C (80 to 85 F). Night-time may drop but must stay above about 21 to 24 C (70 to 75 F). Use a hygrometer and keep humidity around 70 percent (acceptable 60 to 80 percent), with daily misting; too-dry air causes shedding and kidney problems, too-wet stagnant air causes skin and respiratory infection. UVB is essential to prevent metabolic bone disease: use a high-output linear UVB tube (T5 HO, 10 to 12 percent / Ferguson Zone 3 to 4, roughly UVI 3 to 6 at the basking site), positioned so the animal can move to within about 30 cm through open air (mesh and glass block UVB). Run lights on a 12-hour on / 12-hour off cycle and replace UVB tubes every 6 to 12 months per the manufacturer even though they still emit visible light. Use guarded ceramic or basking heat sources on thermostats; never an unguarded bulb the animal can touch.
Company & handling
Best kept singly. Iguanas are not social and do not need companions; cohabiting often leads to bullying, stress, and injury, especially two males or a male with a female he harasses. Mature males are territorial and can become aggressive, particularly during breeding season, and may even redirect aggression toward their keeper. Sexing: adult males develop larger jowls and dewlaps, bigger femoral pores on the underside of the thighs, and paired hemipenal bulges at the tail base; reliable sexing is easiest in adults and can be confirmed by an exotics vet. Regular gentle handling from a young age helps tameness, but never grab or restrain by the tail, which can autotomize (drop) or whip.
Enrichment & exercise
Give vertical complexity: multiple branch levels, ramps, and platforms to climb and survey from height, which reduces stress. Rotate basking perches and provide visual barriers and secure hides. Vary the salad with different greens and occasional edible flowers (hibiscus, dandelion) for foraging interest, and scatter or hang food to encourage natural browsing. Supervised time in a safe, warm, iguana-proofed space and access to natural unfiltered sunlight (in a secure outdoor pen when weather allows) are excellent enrichment. A large soaking tub for bathing supports hydration and shedding.
Common health problems
Metabolic bone disease (MBD)
Signs: Swollen or rubbery lower jaw, bowed or swollen limbs, lumpy or soft bones, tremors and twitching, reluctance to climb, and spontaneous fractures.
Prevention: Correct calcium-rich herbivore diet with a 2:1 calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, appropriate calcium and D3 supplementation, and adequate high-output UVB at the right distance replaced on schedule.
Hypovitaminosis or hypervitaminosis (vitamin/mineral imbalance)
Signs: For too little: poor growth and MBD signs. For too much (from over-supplementing or animal-based foods): lethargy, mineralization of soft tissues, and general decline.
Prevention: Use plain calcium routinely but D3 and multivitamins only once or twice weekly; never feed dog or cat food or other animal protein.
Infectious stomatitis (mouth rot)
Signs: Redness, swelling, or pinpoint bleeding in the mouth, cheesy or cloudy discharge, and reduced appetite.
Prevention: Stable correct temperatures, good enclosure hygiene, avoiding mouth trauma, and prompt treatment of early oral disease.
Respiratory infection
Signs: Open-mouth breathing, wheezing or clicking, bubbling or discharge from nose or mouth, and forced or laboured breathing.
Prevention: Maintain proper warm temperatures and correct (not stagnant, not too-dry) humidity, and good ventilation and cleanliness.
Kidney (renal) disease and gout
Signs: Increased or decreased drinking, weight loss, lethargy, and reduced appetite; with gout, firm swellings around joints or in the mouth. Often linked to chronic dehydration or excess dietary (animal) protein; renal disease and gout are among the leading killers of captive iguanas.
Prevention: Strict herbivore diet with no animal protein, correct humidity, and constant access to clean water for drinking and soaking; keep the animal well hydrated and avoid over-supplementing vitamin D3.
Egg binding (dystocia) and internal or external parasites
Signs: Females: straining, swelling, lethargy, and going off food while gravid. Parasites: poor condition, abnormal droppings, or visible mites.
Prevention: Provide a suitable nesting/egg-laying site for females, routine fecal parasite screening, quarantine of new animals, and regular exotics-vet checks.
See a vet urgently if...
- !Swollen, soft, or rubbery jaw, bowed limbs, tremors, or a sudden fracture (metabolic bone disease)
- !Open-mouth or laboured breathing, wheezing, or discharge from the nose or mouth
- !Not eating for several days, marked lethargy, or a normally bright animal turning dull and unresponsive
- !A female straining, swollen, and off her food (possible egg binding)
- !Any prolapse of tissue from the vent, or the inability to pass droppings
- !Cheesy, bloody, or cloudy material in the mouth (mouth rot), or firm swellings around joints (possible gout)
- !Burns, deep wounds, a bleeding dropped tail, or collapse and severe weakness
In Macau
Macau's warm, humid subtropical climate is a mixed blessing for green iguanas. The natural humidity suits them well, but in summer the heat combined with a basking lamp can push an enclosure to dangerous, even fatal temperatures, so air-conditioning, a thermostat on every heat source, and steady monitoring with a thermometer and hygrometer are essential, as heat stress and overheating can take hold very quickly. During the cooler, damp winter months, keep an eye on stagnant humidity, which can encourage respiratory and skin infections, and make sure the enclosure stays well ventilated. The Royal Veterinary Center sees exotic pets, including reptiles, and we always suggest lining up an exotics-capable vet early so your iguana has support with husbandry, lighting and diet. On the legal side, the green iguana is listed on CITES Appendix II, so international trade is regulated and requires permits, and the species has become invasive in several regions where animals have been released. We cannot confirm the current rules for keeping or importing one in Macau, so before you acquire or import an iguana please check the latest requirements with Macau's competent authorities, including the Municipal Affairs Bureau (IAM). And whatever happens, never release an unwanted iguana into the wild.
Green iguanas have a pale scale on top of the head called the parietal eye, a light-sensitive 'third eye' that detects overhead shadows and movement, helping warn them of predators swooping from above.
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General guidance reviewed by the Royal Veterinary Center team. Not a substitute for a veterinary examination. Always confirm species-specific and legal requirements for Macau.