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All care sheets
Giant African Millipede
Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Invertebrates

Giant African Millipede

Archispirostreptus gigas

Care level

Beginner

Lifespan

5 to 10 years in captivity, with around 7 years typical under good husbandry (females often reach the upper end). This is one of the longest-lived invertebrate pets and a genuine multi-year commitment.

Adult size

Adults commonly reach 20 to 30 cm (8 to 12 in) in length, with exceptional individuals approaching 35 cm (14 in) and roughly finger-thick in body diameter.

The Giant African Millipede is one of the world's largest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates: a gentle, slow-moving forest-floor detritivore that spends most of its time burrowing through and eating its own substrate. Care is genuinely low-effort once the enclosure is set up correctly, which is why we rate it beginner. The main commitments are longevity (up to a decade) and getting the deep, edible substrate, warmth and humidity right from day one. It is a fascinating watch-and-learn pet rather than an interactive one, and it secretes a defensive fluid that can stain and irritate skin and eyes, so it is handled sparingly and briefly rather than cuddled, with hands washed afterwards. Not recommended for very young children, who may rub their eyes or put hands in their mouth after contact.

Housing & setup

Minimum enclosure for one adult is roughly 60 x 45 x 30 cm (about a 40 litre / 10 gallon footprint); a 90 x 45 x 45 cm (approx. 40 gallon) glass or plastic terrarium with a secure, ventilated lid is better and comfortably houses a small group. Because they burrow and molt underground, substrate depth matters: provide plenty of depth for burrowing and underground molting - aim for at least 15 cm, and ideally as deep as the enclosure allows (up toward the animal's body length) for adults. The substrate IS the habitat and most of the diet: use a deep organic mix of decomposing hardwood (oak, beech, elm), crumbled leaf litter (oak leaf litter is ideal) and pesticide-free topsoil or flake soil. Do NOT rely on coconut coir as the main substrate: it has no nutritional value (millipedes eat their substrate) and keeper experience links coir-only substrates to poor condition and possible gut impaction, so use it, if at all, only as a minor component of a wood-and-leaf-litter mix. Add cork bark or a curved bark hide on the surface, a sprinkling of leaf litter, and keep the substrate evenly moist. A shallow, easily-exited water dish is optional but helpful for humidity.

Diet & feeding

A detritivore: the majority of its nutrition comes from eating the decomposing wood and leaf-litter substrate itself, so high-quality, edible substrate is priority one. Supplement a few times weekly with fresh, pesticide-free vegetables and fruit: leafy greens, cucumber, courgette (zucchini), carrot, pumpkin/squash, sweet potato, apple and banana. Provide a constant calcium source (a piece of cuttlebone or a calcium block) to support the exoskeleton. Protein is not essential; if offered at all, give only a very small amount occasionally (a pinch of fish flakes or dried shrimp). Do not offer vertebrate prey such as pinkie mice - it is unnecessary and fouls the enclosure. AVOID: relying on coconut coir as substrate or food (no nutritional value, possible impaction), any plant material treated with pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers, citrus and other highly acidic foods, onion/garlic/allium family, and salty, processed or spicy human foods. Remove uneaten fresh food before it molds.

Temperature, light & environment

Ambient temperature 24 to 28 C (75 to 82 F) suits this warm-climate tropical species best; keep a gentle gradient. Below about 18 to 20 C they become lethargic, stop feeding and molt poorly; sustained temperatures above about 30 to 32 C cause heat stress and can be fatal. In Macau, summer room temperatures are usually within this species' comfort range - the priorities in summer are avoiding heat SPIKES above ~32 C (keep the tank out of direct sun and away from heat sources) and stopping air-conditioning from crashing the humidity. In the cooler months a room can fall below the ~20 C they prefer, so a thermostat-controlled heat mat on ONE side of the tank is appropriate then. Humidity should sit at 70 to 80 percent, maintained by keeping the deep substrate evenly moist (damp, not waterlogged or swampy) and misting lightly as needed. No special lighting is required and NO UVB is needed; these are nocturnal burrowers that prefer low, indirect light and will hide from bright light. Good ventilation matters as much as humidity to prevent stagnant, moldy conditions.

Company & handling

Non-territorial and peaceful; can be kept singly or in a small group provided the enclosure and substrate volume are scaled up and food is abundant. There is no aggression or bonding to manage, and overcrowding is the only real risk. Sexing is possible in mature adults by the gonopods: males have a modified, less leg-like pair on the seventh body ring (a visible gap where legs are absent), whereas females show a full set of legs there. They are not social in a mammalian sense and do not require companionship, so a solitary animal is perfectly content.

Enrichment & exercise

Enrichment for this species is environmental, not interactive. Provide varied leaf litter, chunks of decaying hardwood and multiple bark hides to explore and forage through, and keep the substrate deep enough for natural burrowing and self-directed molting. Rotating in fresh leaf litter and new pieces of rotting wood gives them novel surfaces to graze. Gentle, occasional handling over a flat surface or low table (never over a hard floor, and never squeezed) allows observation, but let the animal walk across your hands rather than restraining it, and wash your hands afterwards. Their natural behaviors - digging, grazing and slowly patrolling - are the show.

Common health problems

Dehydration / low humidity stress

Signs: Wrinkled, tight or dull exoskeleton, lethargy, staying on the surface and refusing to burrow, curling and not relaxing.

Prevention: Keep substrate evenly moist and humidity at 70 to 80 percent, mist as needed, and offer a shallow water dish. Especially important in air-conditioned rooms, which dry the air quickly.

Gut impaction

Signs: Loss of appetite, bloating, inactivity, or sudden death in an otherwise stable animal.

Prevention: Feed a nutritious decaying-hardwood, leaf-litter and clean-topsoil substrate rather than a coir-only substrate, avoid indigestible or contaminated additives, and keep temperature and hydration correct so the gut functions normally.

Molting complications

Signs: Deformed, kinked or incompletely shed segments, being stuck partway out of the burrow, or death during/after burrowing to molt.

Prevention: Provide deep substrate for underground molting, keep humidity high and temperature in the 24-28 C range, ensure a constant calcium source, and never dig up or disturb a millipede that has burrowed to molt.

Exoskeleton / calcium deficiency

Signs: Thin, soft or fragile cuticle, segment deformities, poor recovery after molting.

Prevention: Keep cuttlebone or a calcium block available at all times and offer a varied diet.

Mite overgrowth

Signs: Heavy visible mite loads clustered on the body (small commensal mites are normal and usually harmless; dense infestations are not), reduced activity, irritation around leg bases.

Prevention: Avoid overly wet, stagnant substrate; ensure good ventilation, use a predatory-mite or springtail clean-up crew, and spot-clean uneaten food to deny mites a food source.

Substrate mold / fungal overgrowth

Signs: White fuzzy growth, foul smell, or visibly souring substrate, sometimes with the animal avoiding the substrate.

Prevention: Balance high humidity with good airflow, remove decaying fresh food promptly, and refresh the substrate if it turns sour or waterlogged.

See a vet urgently if...

  • !Refusing to burrow and sitting rigidly on the surface for days, or repeatedly curling and failing to relax (possible severe dehydration or systemic illness).
  • !Sudden bloating, complete loss of appetite, or unexplained collapse in a previously healthy animal (possible impaction).
  • !Stuck mid-molt, or emerging from a molt with deformed, kinked or unshed segments.
  • !Soft, dented, cracked or leaking exoskeleton, or fluid/discharge from the body.
  • !Foul rotting odor, sour or moldy substrate combined with a lethargic animal.
  • !A heavy visible infestation of mites covering the body rather than a few incidental ones.
  • !Prolonged unresponsiveness, limpness or failure to right itself when gently turned over (do not assume dead; millipedes can be very still, but persistent limpness warrants an exotics vet).
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In Macau

Macau's warm, humid subtropical climate suits this heat-loving tropical species well, and the natural humidity is generally in their favour, but it helps to think in terms of two seasonal extremes rather than assuming they always need cooling. Through the summer, guard against heat spikes above about 32 C, which can be fatal, by keeping the enclosure out of direct sun and away from other heat sources, and keep an eye on the air-conditioning so it does not dry the air and drop humidity below around 60 percent. In the cooler months, indoor temperatures can dip below the roughly 20 C this species prefers, so a thermostat-controlled heat mat on one side of the tank may be needed; heating is not always unnecessary here. On the legal side, Archispirostreptus gigas is not CITES-listed, but it is a large, non-native invertebrate that naturally carries commensal mites, so please never release one into the wild. We cannot confirm Macau's current rules for keeping or importing this species, so before acquiring or bringing one in, check with the Municipal Affairs Bureau (IAM), and choose only a reputable, captive-bred source. The Royal Veterinary Center sees exotic pets, and it is worth arranging an exotics-capable vet early so your millipede has support from the start.

When threatened, a Giant African Millipede coils into a tight defensive spiral and can release a brownish fluid containing benzoquinones (with traces of other irritant compounds). It is not truly harmless: it can stain skin a yellow-brown that takes a day or two to fade, and it stings and irritates the eyes and mucous membranes, so wash your hands after handling and keep it away from your face and eyes. Remarkably, wild lemurs in Madagascar have been observed deliberately provoking millipedes and rubbing the secretion over their fur, apparently using it as a natural insect and mosquito repellent. Despite that chemistry, the millipede itself cannot bite or sting - the fluid is its only defence.

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General guidance reviewed by the Royal Veterinary Center team. Not a substitute for a veterinary examination. Always confirm species-specific and legal requirements for Macau.