Giant African Land Snail

A single snail needs a minimum footprint of about 30 x 20 x 20 cm (roughly a 12 litre glass or plastic tank); 45 x 30 x 30 cm is better and comfortably houses one or two. Floor space matters more than height, and excessive height is a hazard because a fall can crack the shell. Use a secure, well-ventilated lid to hold humidity while allowing airflow. Fill with at least 5 to 8 cm of moist, peat-free substrate (coir or coco fibre, or peat-free compost) so the snail can fully burrow; deeper is better. Add a piece of cork bark or a curved bark hide, a shallow water dish they cannot drown in, and sturdy low climbing decor. Always keep a piece of cuttlefish bone in the enclosure.

Staple: a daily rotation of washed leafy greens and vegetables such as dandelion leaves, kale, romaine and other lettuces, cucumber, courgette, sweet pepper, carrot, and cooked/steamed sweet potato and squash. Offer fruit in moderation as a treat (banana, apple, strawberry, melon). Provide a constant calcium source for shell growth: cuttlefish bone available at all times, supplemented with crushed cuttlebone, powdered oyster shell, or clean crushed eggshell. A small occasional protein source (a pinch of oats or fish flake) can support growth but is not essential. AVOID entirely: all citrus and other acidic fruits (orange, lemon, grapefruit, pineapple), salt and any salty/processed food, onion, garlic, spicy foods, and any produce that may carry pesticides. Remove uneaten fresh food daily to prevent mould and mites.

Keep ambient temperature at 20 to 25 C, ideally 21 to 24 C, and as constant as possible using a thermostat-controlled heat mat placed on the side of the tank rather than underneath. Never let it fall below 18 C (they seal up and go dormant); sustained temperatures above about 28 to 29 C cause heat stress and, if prolonged, can be fatal. There is no basking requirement because this is an invertebrate that does not thermoregulate by basking. Maintain relative humidity at 70 to 80 percent, checked with a hygrometer, by lightly misting with dechlorinated water and keeping the substrate moist but never waterlogged. No UVB or special lighting is needed; a normal day-night light cycle from ambient room light is sufficient, and direct sunlight must be avoided because it overheats and dehydrates the snail.

Not a social animal in the bonding sense, but it tolerates and can be kept in groups without stress, so one snail is perfectly happy alone and small groups are fine given enough space and food. No sexing is required: every individual is a hermaphrodite with both male and female organs. Be aware that even a single, never-paired snail can sometimes lay fertile eggs, and paired snails breed readily and can store sperm for long periods, so any group will need an egg-management plan.

Provide a deep, moist, diggable substrate for natural burrowing, plus cork bark, branches, and textured surfaces to climb and rasp. Vary the vegetables offered to encourage foraging, mist the enclosure to trigger active movement (they are most lively in humid, evening conditions), and add leaf litter and moss for exploration and hiding. Gentle, occasional handling over clean moist hands is enrichment for the keeper and low-stress for the snail when done correctly; always wash hands thoroughly afterwards.