Chinese Water Dragon

Minimum for a single adult is about 120 x 60 x 150 cm (roughly 4 x 2 x 5 ft), and taller (up to 180 cm / 6 ft) is strongly preferred because the species is arboreal and needs vertical climbing space. Larger is always better, especially for males. Use a solid-backed, well-ventilated enclosure rather than an all-glass tank to reduce persistent nose-rubbing on transparent walls. Furnish with sturdy diagonal climbing branches, cork bark, and dense foliage (live or artificial) for cover and to break sight lines. Provide a large water basin on the floor deep enough for the dragon to fully submerge and swim (at least ~40 to 70 litres, more for big adults). Use a humidity-friendly substrate such as an organic topsoil/cypress-mulch mix; avoid loose pure coconut coir dust, which can irritate eyes.

Staple is a variety of gut-loaded insects: crickets, dubia and other roaches, locusts, and black soldier fly larvae (calciworms). Offer higher-fat feeders such as waxworms and superworms, plus occasional pinkie mice and appropriate fish, only as infrequent treats (roughly once a week or less) to prevent obesity. Leafy greens and a little fruit should make up only about 10 percent of the diet. Dust feeders at nearly every feeding with plain calcium, and add a vitamin/D3 supplement roughly every 6th to 8th feeding; gut-load insects for 2 to 3 days beforehand. AVOID: wild-caught insects (pesticide and parasite risk), fireflies/lightning bugs (toxic to reptiles), avocado, rhubarb, and large amounts of high-oxalate greens such as spinach, which impair calcium uptake. Do not rely on high-fat feeders or fruit as staples.

Basking surface temperature 32 to 35 C (90 to 95 F). Warm ambient around 26 to 29 C (80 to 84 F), cool end 25 to 28 C. Night-time drop to about 22 to 24 C (72 to 75 F), not below roughly 22 C. Humidity should sit at 60 to 80 percent, achieved with the large water area, live planting and daily misting; pair this with good ventilation so the enclosure never becomes stagnant or mouldy. Keep pool water around 26 to 27 C and clean it frequently, as dragons often defecate in it. Provide strong daytime UVB from a linear T5 HO tube spanning most of the enclosure length: this species is a Ferguson Zone 2 to 3 basker (it uses dappled riverbank/canopy edges but will sun itself), so aim for a basking-zone UV Index in the range of roughly 1.0 to 2.6. In a tall enclosure a 6 percent (Zone 2/forest) tube mounted so the dragon can bask about 25 to 35 cm from it works well; a higher-output (10 to 12 percent) tube can be used if mounted further away, always confirmed with a Solarmeter 6.5 rather than guessed. Do not under-provision UVB, as too little is a leading cause of metabolic bone disease. Replace UVB tubes on the manufacturer schedule (typically every ~12 months for T5 HO) even before they stop emitting visible light. Supply a bright, clearly day/night photoperiod.

Best kept singly for a pet. They are not colonial, and males are territorial. Two adult males must never share an enclosure and will fight, sometimes fatally. A single male with one or more females can sometimes be housed together only in a very large, well-planted enclosure with multiple basking and hiding sites, and only with close monitoring for chasing, tail damage and suppressed feeding. Males are sexed by their larger size, broader heads, more prominent crest and femoral pores; adult females are smaller with a lower crest. Any grouping is an advanced, space-dependent choice, not a default.

Provide a genuinely three-dimensional space: varied climbing branches at different heights and angles, basking shelves near (but safely below) the heat source, and a pool large enough for real swimming, which is natural exercise for this species. Dense cover and visual barriers let the dragon feel secure and reduce stress-driven glass surfing. Rotate and rearrange branches and foliage occasionally, offer live plants to explore, and encourage natural foraging by scatter-feeding insects or using feeding tongs. Gentle, consistent, low-stress handling from a young age helps, but many individuals remain flighty and prefer to be watched rather than held.