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All care sheets
Bourke's Parakeet
Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Birds

Bourke's Parakeet

Neopsephotus bourkii

Care level

Beginner

Lifespan

Commonly 8 to 15 years in captivity, and occasionally reaching around 20 to 25 years with excellent care and diet.

Adult size

A small grass parakeet: about 18 to 23 cm (7 to 9 in) from head to tail, weighing roughly 40 to 50 g (most adults around 45 g).

The Bourke's Parakeet is a gentle, quiet Australian grass parakeet and one of the most forgiving small parrots for a first-time bird keeper. It is hardy, undemanding, soft-voiced (a rare virtue in an apartment), and content in a bonded pair, which makes it a genuinely realistic beginner species. That said, beginner does not mean disposable: this is a decade-plus commitment that needs a flight-length cage, a varied diet beyond plain seed, daily fresh water and cleaning, and a proper avian vet. Unusually among parrots it is crepuscular, so expect its liveliest bursts of flight and soft chirping at dawn and dusk rather than midday. Handled kindly and fed well, it is an easy, long-lived, low-drama companion.

Housing & setup

For a single bird or a pair, the absolute minimum cage is about 90 cm long x 60 cm wide x 60 cm high (3 x 2 x 2 ft); longer is far better than taller because these are strong horizontal fliers, so treat length as the priority and give an aviary or flight cage if you can. Bar spacing should be no more than about 1.2 cm (roughly 1/2 in) so heads and toes cannot get trapped. Provide 2 to 3 perches of varying natural-wood diameters (this exercises the feet and helps prevent pressure sores), positioned to keep flight paths clear and to keep food and water bowls out from directly underneath. Line the tray with paper or a safe, non-toxic substrate that lets you monitor droppings; avoid loose materials the bird could ingest. Add a cuttlebone or mineral block, a shallow bath dish (they love bathing), and a few chewable toys. Only add a nest box if you intend to breed, as one will stimulate egg-laying.

Diet & feeding

Staple: a good-quality grass-parakeet or small-parrot seed mix dominated by millets and canary seed, ideally paired with formulated small-parrot pellets making up roughly a third to a half of the daily intake to cover vitamins and minerals that a seed-only diet lacks. Keep high-fat seeds (sunflower, safflower) as occasional treats only, since obesity and fatty-liver disease are the classic seed-junkie killers. Supplement daily with fresh vegetables and leafy greens (kale, dandelion greens, broccoli, grated carrot, corn) and smaller amounts of fruit (apple with seeds removed, pear, berries, banana); offer high-oxalate greens like spinach or chard only occasionally, as excess oxalate can bind dietary calcium. Sprouted seeds several times a week are excellent nutrition. Offer a cuttlebone or mineral block for calcium, especially for hens. Always provide clean, fresh water. AVOID entirely: avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, rhubarb, apple seeds and stone-fruit pits (cyanide compounds), onion and garlic, and salty or sugary human snacks. All are toxic or harmful to birds.

Temperature, light & environment

Bourke's Parakeets are arid-country birds that tolerate a wide temperature range but do best at ordinary indoor temperatures of about 18 to 24 C. Protect them from extremes: avoid sustained exposure below roughly 10 C (they need a dry, draught-free, sheltered space in the cold) and avoid heat stress above about 30 to 32 C, providing shade and airflow when it is hot. They do NOT require a basking lamp or a dedicated heat source when kept at stable room temperature. No UVB lamp is strictly required, but access to natural daylight or a full-spectrum bird light supports vitamin D, calcium metabolism, and a healthy circadian rhythm. Aim for moderate ambient humidity (roughly 40 to 60 percent) and good ventilation without direct draughts. Because they are crepuscular, give a consistent light cycle with 10 to 12 hours of dark, quiet, undisturbed rest each night.

Company & handling

A naturally social flock bird, happiest kept in a compatible male-female pair or a small colony in a large enough aviary; peaceful enough to share space with other calm grass parakeets when not overcrowded. A single bird can thrive if given plenty of daily human interaction, but genuine companionship of its own kind is strongly beneficial. Sexing is only moderately reliable by eye: males typically show a brighter pink breast and throat and more blue on the face and are marginally larger, while females are duller and browner. Color mutations blur these cues, so DNA sexing is the dependable method. Same-sex pairs or leaving out a nest box are simple ways to avoid unwanted breeding.

Enrichment & exercise

Prioritise flight: a long cage or daily out-of-cage flying time is the single best enrichment for this strong-flying species and the best defence against obesity. Offer chewable wood and shreddable toys, foraging opportunities (millet sprays, food hidden in safe foraging toys), and a shallow bath, which they genuinely enjoy. Vary perch types and rotate toys to keep things novel. Schedule interaction and activity around their dawn and dusk activity peaks, and provide gentle company, since a bonded partner or attentive owner is itself important stimulation.

Common health problems

Obesity and fatty liver disease (hepatic lipidosis)

Signs: Weight gain, a bulky chest, reluctance to fly, laboured effort after short flights, and sometimes overgrown beak or poor feather quality.

Prevention: Feed a balanced seed-plus-pellet diet, ration high-fat seeds like sunflower and safflower to occasional treats, and ensure ample flight and exercise.

Nutritional deficiency (vitamin A and calcium)

Signs: Poor or dull feathering, frequent respiratory or sinus infections, weakness, and in hens soft-shelled eggs or reproductive trouble.

Prevention: Avoid an all-seed diet; include pellets, dark leafy greens and orange vegetables, and provide a cuttlebone or mineral block for calcium.

Egg binding and chronic egg-laying (hens)

Signs: A hen straining, sitting fluffed on the cage floor, a swollen or distended abdomen, tail bobbing, or inability to pass an egg. This is an emergency.

Prevention: Maintain good calcium and vitamin D, avoid unnecessary breeding stimulation by leaving out nest boxes, and do not over-lengthen daylight hours for non-breeding hens.

Respiratory disease and psittacosis (Chlamydia psittaci)

Signs: Sneezing, nasal or eye discharge, tail bobbing when breathing, wheezing, fluffed posture, and lethargy. Psittacosis can also infect humans.

Prevention: Provide good ventilation, avoid smoke, aerosols and dust, quarantine new birds, and seek prompt avian veterinary testing for any respiratory signs.

Pododermatitis (bumblefoot)

Signs: Redness, swelling, smoothing or sores on the underside of the feet, and favouring one foot.

Prevention: Use natural-wood perches of varying diameters rather than a single smooth dowel, keep perches and cage clean, and manage body weight.

See a vet urgently if...

  • !Sitting fluffed up on the cage floor, unable or unwilling to perch, or sudden marked lethargy
  • !Laboured breathing, tail bobbing with each breath, open-mouth breathing, or a clicking or wheezing sound
  • !Discharge from the nostrils or eyes, repeated sneezing, or a soiled, matted face
  • !A hen straining, sitting on the floor, or with a swollen belly and no egg passed (egg binding is an emergency)
  • !Not eating or drinking for more than a few hours, refusing a normal feeding period, or noticeable weight loss and a prominent keel bone (a bird this small can decline fast, so treat anorexia as urgent)
  • !Blood in the droppings, blood-stained cage, or active bleeding from a broken blood feather
  • !Vomiting or repeated regurgitation, fluffed and quiet, or a sudden change in droppings (very watery, discoloured, or greatly reduced)
Call our 24/7 line: +853 6677 6611

In Macau

Macau's hot, humid subtropical summers are the main husbandry challenge for this arid-adapted bird. Heat stress becomes a real risk above roughly 30 to 32 C, so keep the cage out of direct sun, make sure there is steady airflow, offer bathing water and shade, and use air conditioning during heatwaves. High humidity also encourages mould and bacterial growth, so keep the enclosure meticulously clean and dry and never let seed or water sit damp. The Royal Veterinary Center sees exotic and avian pets, so it is well worth lining up an avian-experienced vet before any problem arises. On the legal side, the Bourke's Parakeet is listed on CITES Appendix II, which means moving the bird across borders is regulated and needs the proper permits and documentation, and the IUCN lists the species as Least Concern. We cannot confirm the specific keeping or import rules that apply in Macau, so before acquiring or importing one please verify the current local requirements with the relevant Macau authorities, in particular the Municipal Affairs Bureau (IAM), along with any applicable CITES and import regulations. Please do not assume the bird is freely importable without checking first.

Unlike almost every other parrot, the Bourke's Parakeet is crepuscular: it comes alive at dawn and dusk and will chirp and fly about in low light while most parrots have already gone to roost, an adaptation to beating the daytime heat of the Australian outback.

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General guidance reviewed by the Royal Veterinary Center team. Not a substitute for a veterinary examination. Always confirm species-specific and legal requirements for Macau.